Bernie continues his adventure in Vietnam where he now trades the Honda Air Blade scooter for a Honda CRF150 and heads high up into the mountains and beyond...
After an exhilarating ride on the mighty Honda scooter, we leave Danang and arrive in the bustling city of Hanoi, Vietnam, a place bursting with the highest concentration of motorcycles I’ve ever seen. The culinary delights were equally astounding, from creatively crafted coffees—like egg coffee and orange coffee—to savoring a delicious Bánh mì while soaking in the vibrant atmosphere of the markets. The sensory overload was mind-blowing…
Read Bernie’s last column, Vietnam Part 1, here…
G’day Everyone!
If you haven’t read Part 1 of my Vietnam trip, click on the link above…
One of the highlights of this trip was the Train Street cafes, where you can be sitting and sip your coffee waiting for a that train whistles past, drawing applause from admiring patrons. I also stumbled upon classic bikes, including Cossacks and Vespas, preserved in their original condition.
While Hanoi is thrilling, I eagerly anticipated the next chapter of our Vietnam adventure, which promised to rank among the top 10 experiences of my motorcycling life. Every motorcyclist should indulge in a Vietnam experience at some point.
The Bike
We arranged our motorcycle through the Flipside guys, a laid-back New Zealand company run by friendly lads from Brisbane who were incredibly supportive and fun, providing tour guides, motorcycles and tours to suit all genres of motorcycling. After a late arrival at the Flipside accommodation, we awoke to an awesome pancake breakfast paired with yet another incredible Vietnamese coffee in a tranquil rural setting. The accommodation was quiet, comfortable, and relaxed.
After breakfast, I was introduced to our ride for the next three days: a Honda CRF150 trailbike that looked brand new. I felt a rush of excitement; it’s not every day you get to ride a bike in such pristine condition! The CRF is a single-cylinder bike with around 15 horsepower, a five-speed gearbox, and a combination of disc and drum brakes. Fitted with new 60/40 adventure tyres, it was a step up from the Honda Blade scooter I had ridden in Da Nang, offering more comfort and space for a pillion.
The bike’s soft suspension posed challenges on steep climbs, but I managed a few exhilarating wheelstands along the way—though not because I was emulating MotoGP stars, but because I had to navigate narrow paths with sharp rocks on one side and a steep drop of about 700 meters on the other!
A bit too high!
Surprisingly nimble and comfortable, the CRF was perfect for our journey along the stunning Huang Chao Loop, which winds through breathtaking mountain roads along the Chinese border. We encountered paths barely a meter wide, had to give way to oncoming traffic, and tackled tight switchbacks while taking in incredible scenery and altitude. As someone who struggles with heights, this put me on edge!
We stopped at a local coffee shop for what I can confidently say was the best coffee I’ve ever had—so good, in fact, that we brought back utensils to recreate it at home. We also visited a local market to gather supplies as gifts for the resilient Mong people.
“It made me reflect on how complicated we make our lives back home, chasing material things for happiness”…
Listening to their stories of hardship, skills, and rituals while sitting in a humble hut with a mud floor was incredibly humbling. The walls bore remnants of chicken blood, offered to spirits in hopes of a bountiful harvest. It made me reflect on how complicated we make our lives back home, chasing material things for happiness.
As we cruised through the mountains, this feeling deepened. Each small village welcomed us with swarming children sporting huge smiles, eagerly reaching for high-fives. The joy and warmth we encountered were infectious.
“The roads were a mix of tight turns and steep switchbacks, leading us through stunning landscapes”…
The roads were a mix of tight turns and steep switchbacks, leading us through stunning landscapes, though occasional smog did detract from the views. The Mong people, skillfully living on the edge of these mountains, embodied resilience and gratitude, their huge smiles heartwarming.
A standout moment was when we inadvertently stumbled into the middle of a school assembly, a delightful surprise. Our guides actively support the Mong community, and in return, we were greeted with immense warmth and hospitality.
What an Experience
After a full day in the saddle, we parked our bikes and took a refreshing dip in a beautiful river, feeling a sense of accomplishment and serenity. Just as I thought it was time to relax with a beer, we embarked on one of the most exhilarating experiences yet.
We started a steep ascent on one of the narrowest trails, with breathtaking views all around. After 40 minutes of climbing, we found ourselves on top of the world—though I must admit, this freaked me out, as I have a serious fear of heights! Our accommodation was perched atop this stunning mountain, where we enjoyed local foods, beer, and, of course, some magic water that locked in unforgettable memories.
“The days, kilometers, and experiences flew by, and I loved every moment of this journey”…
The days, kilometers, and experiences flew by, and I loved every moment of this journey. You do need to have good riding skills; this adventure is not for novice riders, as there are too many challenges with little to no support if you get it wrong. However, Flipside offers the opportunity to ride as a pillion with one of their experienced tour group riders, and we engaged in some spirited rides on our little rockets that left grins on our faces.
We opted for the private ride package, which included our bike and two tour guides. I doubled my partner, while the other two guides doubled paying customers. Everything was covered—accommodation, breakfast, lunch, and dinner—leaving only alcohol and extras for us to pay. It was not expensive; in fact, it was an absolute bargain!
Special thanks to Chook, our local guide, Lawerence and all the staff for the fun, laughter, and friendship. If you don’t back yourself as a rider, I highly recommend jumping on the back of a mentor or experienced rider. It’s an adventure you won’t want to miss!
p.s – Make sure your travel insurance fully covers you for scooter/motorcycle riding in Vietnam for accident and injury, and that you have the appropriate licence to ride in Vietnam!
Life starts on two wheels, Bernie…
Gallery | Bernie’s Vietnam Adventure
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