July Bear Tracks | Half-litre winner to Wombeyan Caves

A rough, scenic run through Wombeyan Caves Road on Kawasaki’s new KLE500 reveals the once much-loved road is still spectacular, still challenging and still worth the ride.

Peter ‘The Bear’ Thoeming takes Kawasaki’s new KLE500 along the damaged, dramatic and officially complicated Wombeyan Caves Road, where gravel, cliffs, potholes, wildlife and legal grey areas make for a ride that is as memorable as it is occasionally nerve-rattling.

The Caves Road has changed since I wrote about it in my Australia: Road Atlas, and not necessarily for the better. Some more of it has been tarred on the western side, coming down from Richlands to the Caves. The stretch from there towards Mittagong, however, remains closed between Langs Road – above the Caves – and Goodmans Ford “due to extensive flood damage and embankment slips”.

My informant looked at the Kawasaki I was riding and then looked me straight in the eyes, “…it is open for local access.”

When I asked about that in Taralga before setting out, the answer was that yes, the road was closed. “But you’re on a bike, right, and…” my informant looked at the Kawasaki I was riding and then looked me straight in the eyes, “…it is open for local access.” – “Ah,” I replied, “I think I am beginning to feel more like a local as we speak.” My informant smiled. “You’re even beginning to look like a local, mate.”

This is our BikeReview long term project KLE500 SE.

Closed or not, the road is in pretty good shape over the stretch from the Caves to Goodmans Ford. My Kawasaki KLE500 was more than up to the task. Please note when I write “pretty good shape” I do not mean that it is up to normal road standard. Its surface is sandy gravel, scattered with quite a few rocks which have fallen from the various embankments. It also runs extremely close to several hundred-metre-or-more drops in quite a few places – and when I write “extremely close” I mean with no edge at all. If you are keen to ride fast or if you have a thing about heights this is not the road for you.

On the other hand, practically all of the floodways have been stabilised and the road runs through some of the most beautiful scenery anywhere. The views up to the cliffs and down into the valleys are inspirational (or terrifying, of course). You’ll see plenty of kangaroos and wallabies. I even spotted a wombat on the road – a living, breathing one for once, not roadkill. I stopped next to it and said, “Go back to your hole. It’s daylight. You’re not meant to be out.” It sighed and trundled off into the bush.

Read previous Bear Tracks columns here

The closure ends at the Wollondilly River, which you cross by the concrete Goodmans Ford and after a very short bit of sealed road you’ll find yourself on gravel again. This is noticeably worse than the surface you have been on, because someone has littered its surface with rocks, presumably for traction. They make it bumpy, even with halfway decent motorcycle suspension. Bumpy enough to rattle the cap off my invaluable Nomad accessory fuel tank. Damn.

Eventually, and for quite a ways, the surface is sealed again. But don’t celebrate just yet. As you enter Nattai National Park, it reverts to dirt – and to not very nice dirt at all. A combination of corrugations and potholes the size of a Mini’s wheel (complete with tyre) makes it interesting. I was surprised by the competence with which the KLE’s suspension handled them. Many corners have had their surface pushed up by trucks in waves of clay, looking like several berms next to each other. At least there’s a tunnel to photograph your bike with. Then it’s back to sealed road again, and this time it stays that way until you reach the outskirts of Mittagong.

If you are keen to ride fast or if you have a thing about heights this is not the road for you.

Mittagong, in case you care, has one of the country’s most charmless shopping centres squatting next to the road. Across on the other side is the very helpful and well-stocked Motorcycle Adventure Products. The shopping centre has various cafés; welcome back to civilisation.

Wombeyan Caves

The official blurb sums it up quite nicely: “Explore spectacular underground limestone caverns on guided or self-guided tours, relax in a leafy campground or cozy cabin, and enjoy bushwalking, wildlife spotting, and swimming in the local creeks.” In other words, Wombeyan has the usual cave attractions but also offers the usual bush camping (or cabin) pleasures. Few other cave systems do that, and it makes this place one of my favourite bush destinations. It’s also a 417 hectare endangered species reserve – so watch for skippy and his mates on the roads! Years ago, we had a club run there (when the road from Mittagong was open) which was terrific. The caves are cool, too, and less touristy than, say, Jenolan Caves.

Facilities are outstanding. The Reserve is effectively always open, except due to really bad weather or fire danger. For more information or bookings (recommended) call the Wombeyan Caves office on 02 4843 5976. Contact hours are 9am to 4.30pm daily. Closed Christmas Day.

It’s also a 417ha endangered species reserve – so watch for skippy and his mates on the roads!

Right in the middle

Kawasaki’s re-introduced and updated KLE500 looks like the right bike at the right time, with midsized adventure bikes becoming more popular. It comes in two versions – one is basic and the other has some bling added. Confusingly, I had the standard version but with most of the bling added anyway.

Unless I’m very much mistaken, the 451cc parallel twin engine is a venerable and therefore utterly reliable unit. Considering the capacity, it provides decent power on demand. The tank holds 16 litres, which will take you well over 300km. A range indicator in the plain but complete display is welcome, if a little erratic. The outstanding feature of the bike is the new Uni-Trak rear suspension to deliver top-in-class wheel travel (210mm front, 196mm rear) and damping settings. The 21in front and 17in rear spoke wheels look good. Selectable rear ABS is a useful feature, and the bike feels even lighter than its claimed 194kg. You can follow our build on our long termer, here…

Selectable ABS is a useful feature, and the bike feels even lighter than its claimed 194kg.

This might “only” be a 500, but it’s a full-sized motorcycle. The RRP is a reasonable $9599. Take a look on the Kawasaki website for more details. Do I have a complaint? Yes I do, but it’s more about my age than the bike. The seat height is at 870mm, which I find kind of high these days.

*Seriously…

If you ride past a “Road Closed” sign in New South Wales, you are committing two offences. “Disobey road access sign” will cost you at least $272 and two points. “Entering a closed road” will see you in court and the beak may impose a fine of several thousand dollars. There are other potential consequences, such as your insurance lapsing.

If the sign also states “Local Access Only” or words to that effect, the closure is not a formal one. It is instead a traffic management restriction but you can still be fined for “disobeying a traffic control device” if you are not, in fact, a local. Presumably the fine will be less than the above. Now here’s an interesting point: having a destination on that road may entitle you to use it. What does that mean? It will depend on the cop. If I, for instance, wanted to take photos in a particular place, is that a destination?

If you ride past a “Road Closed” sign in New South Wales, you are committing two offences.

Not that it matters. I’m admitting nothing. This entire story is a bunch of lies. “I was never down there in the first place, Your Honour.”